Grateful for Italy
Gratitude Show Notes
On today’s episode, Alexander and I recap our trip to Italy and talk “gratitude” then end on a whiskey moment. This conversation is incredibly informal and somewhat scatterbrained. To help close some of the gaps, I am including details here on our itinerary, recommendations, and pictures from the trip.
Friday: First day in Rome, Colosseum Tour
1100:
Arrived and cleared customs.
1230:
Boarded train from FCO to Roma Termini (Leonardo Express - 32 minutes direct)
TIP: Download the Trenitalia app to purchase train tickets. This is the fastest and easiest
way to buy and use tickets for train transport
1300
Arrived in Rome, 35 minute walk to Airbnb
Great location for proximity to attractions: Trevi Fountain, Pantheon, Spanish Steps
Rome Airbnb
1345:
Shower and regroup before heading to the Colosseum for a guide lead tour
1530
Tour of the Colosseum, Roman Forum, and Palestine Hill (3 hours)
We used this group to book our tour and were in a group of 12. Our guide was outstanding and gave us a lot of insights we wouldn't have had otherwise. Highly recommend a guided tour for occasions like this. (High praise coming from two “do-it-yourselfers”)
1900
Dinner at Ad Hoc https://www.instagram.com/ad_hoc_rome/
This dinner was INCREDIBLE. Quite upscale but TOTALLY worth it. Especially after a long day of travel. We hadn’t had a meal since a (sub-par) breakfast on the flight and were ready to chow down. That we did!
TIP: Make reservations ahead of time - this can be done online
Miles walked: 9.6
Saturday: Full day in Rome, seeing all the things
This was the day we mentioned in the podcast that did not go according to plan at all. A comically long itinerary was completed in half a day. Overall we saw a lot and checked many “Rome Must See” boxes. No regrets. I’ll share the things we did and some notes on what I would do differently knowing what I know now.
0545
Piazza Navona
Pretty but not a ton to do, especially at the butt crack of dawn
Pantheon
Also pretty incredible considering the rich history. Very quiet early in the morning but great for photos.
RECCO: Make an appointment to go inside first thing. Rick Steves has a lot of free audio walking tours, including one for the Pantheon. Download the Rick Steves app and walk around with more perspective.
Trevi Fountain
We had so much extra time compared to what the itinerary suggested that we walked over to see the Trevi Fountain even though we knew that by 0630 it would already be pretty crowded. This made for some great people watching and investigation for where to snap some shots the next morning.
0700
Espresso & Cornetto at Sant'Eustachio Il Caffè
Sant'Eustachio Il Caffè has been roasting its beans over a wood fire since 1948, using the same vintage machine. Their traditional method gives their coffee a unique flavor you won't find elsewhere.
Breakfast Pizza at Antico Forno Roscioli
This was more out of desperation than anything else. Alexander was hungry, this had great reviews, and they were open at 0730. It was a cute little shop with lots of different pastries and of course pizza.
Campo de' Fiori
This is an outdoor market and location that comes highly recommended anywhere your search for “things to do in Rome” but I didn't love it. It felt quite touristy where many vendors were trying to push products. The fresh flowers were stunning but we were there so early that we couldn't appreciate it fully as they were still setting up.
RECCO: If you go, skip the walk through and just see the flowers. No more than a 10m event.
0800
Walk down the Tiber River to Trastevere
Beautiful walk and great place for a run if you’re into that on vacation.
RECCO: Rent bikes to cover more distance and see a Rome from a different angle
Basilica of Santa Maria in Trastevere
The basilica houses some of the oldest mosaics in Christian art, including those on the triumphal arch and nave, which date back to the 5th century. This is also where many Popes rest, including Pope Francis.
0930
Brunch in Trastevere
I can't find the location where we ate brunch but you’re not missing out. Trastevere was pretty quiet still this “early” in the day. This part of Rome is supposed to be romantic and beautiful and I'm certain that it is later in the day.
Basilica of Santa Cecilia in Trastevere
After brunch we bopped over to Basilica of Santa Cecilia in Trastevere. This church unique as it had an underground complex that takes you back in time. Excavations beneath the basilica have uncovered remnants of a 2nd-century BC Roman domus (house), featuring original walls, columns, and mosaic floors.
1030
Walked (40 mins) back to the Airbnb for a nap, regroup, and outfit change before afternoon activities.
1500
Piazza Del Popolo & Museo Leonardo da Vinci
Recharged and with gelato in hand we walked towards this Piazza where what looked like an international youth tennis tournament was being held. So fun! On the corner of this Piazza is the Leonardo da Vinci museum. While there was not a lot of original content here, there were great replicas and history to capture.
1700
Aperitivo at Ceilo followed by dinner at Cantina Croce
The walk from Piazza Del Popolo was uphill but beautiful heading to the Ceilo rooftop bar. This was a wonderful experience with an incredible hilltop view of the Eternal City.
Afterwards we walked back towards the Airbnb and had dinner close by at Cantina Croce. The cured meat and cheese antipasti was delicious and the staff was a joy to spend time with during our meal.
Miles walked: 10.9
Sunday: Sunrise at Trevi & travel to Tuscany
0530
Trevi Fountain & Spanish Steps
In an attempt to beat the crowds, we went to the Trevi Fountain first thing. We saw not one but two bridal parties and dozens of people already snapping shots at this iconic Rome landmark. Trevi was a fun and necessary site to see but it wasn’t entirely life changing. Afterwards we stopped by the Spanish Steps and grabbed breakfast before packing up and returning to the train station to pick up our rental car and head to Tuscany.
1300
Lunch at the gas station restaurant - listen to the pod for more context
1500
This was a medieval fortress, constructed in 1247 under Emperor Frederick II. The fortress itself was so fun to walk around. There were apartments and cafes and small shops within the castle walls. There was also a way to walk around the top of the fortress and see where and how it would have been defended.
1630
Arrive at Airbnb in Cortona
The pictures say it all! I could have stayed here forever
1900
Dinner at La Dogana
The couple who owned this restaurant moved to the area in the 2020 timeframe from the UK. The husband was the chef and wife ran the restaurant. Here is where we selected the chef’s 5 course tasting menu and holy cow the meal was out of this world! They don’t have a website other than the menu but photos on google maps capture the restaurant well!
Monday: Wine tasting in Cortona
1130
Tour and tasting at La Braccesca
Pleaseeeee go visit their website linked above. This was the perfect way to kick off the time we spent in the region. There were 4 different tastings at the end of the tour that increased in both complexity and elegance. Afterwards we had lunch at the winery and went back to the airbnb for time by the pool.
1800
Aperitivo at May Fair Bar - Passignano sul Trasimeno & Dinner at Osteria da Liam
Monday evening we went to a small town on the lake and walked around a bit before stopping for drinks followed by dinner. Our waitress at dinner had moved to the area after completing university in Rome. She was originally from Iran and had a very insightful perspective to share. I enjoyed all things truffle for dinner and it was EVEN BETTER for breakfast the next morning.
Tuesday: Bike around the Lago Trasimeno
1000
Bike around Lago Trasimeno (4h on e-bikes)
This was a fun experience overall but the road for the most part was fairly rough and bumpy. We were quite sore the next couple of days. Castello di Zocco can be seen from the bike trail. We took a detour and went up to the castle to snoop around. It wasn't open to the public at the time but still pretty cool to set eyes on a medieval fortress from 1274. We stopped for lunch at a small cafe on the lake and had quick sandwiches and gelato to fuel the back half of the ride.
We rented our bikes from Cicli Marinelli Ferrettini and everything worked out great!
1600
While the property, structure, and history of wine here dates back to 1300, the family who owns and runs the winery today started producing here in the 1990s. This is the small winery we mentioned on the pod that was run by the brother-sister duo with the sweetest doggos. This is also where we happened upon the eclectic Macedonians.
1750
Tasting at Avignonesi
TIP: Dont arrive 10 minutes before closing
RECCO: Spend time here doing a tour and a tasting. They also offer cooking classes on their website.
This was a cool spot and also where we ran into the UGA students. While we slipped in just before closing, it would have been nice to spend more time here. I would have loved to have taken a cooking class at some point during our time in Italy and this might have been a good two for one!
1900
Dinner at Trattoria Dardano in Cortona
Would have loved to spend more time walking around the town but the weather had other plans. Rain sent us undercover and we luckily found a delicious dinner spot who had an open table for two. Steak tartare and pesto pasta with house wine - I could have for every meal forever. We couldn't end the evening without a proper night cap (gelato). Then turned in.
Wednesday: Tastings & travel to P.S. Stefano
1100
Tasting at Baldetti
This is where our host gave us an intense yet romantic introduction to each of the 4 tastings we had. At the end, we decided to have a glass of Metodo Classico that is made using the Spumante method. Think of it as the italian equivalent of champagne. This was a proper send off taking us from Cortona to the coast.
1300
Lunch in Montepulciano at La Schiaccia dell'Opio
This sandwich shop is somewhat of a hidden gem. We were looking for a quick bite which is hard to come by in Italy. La Schiaccia fit the bill perfectly. We took our sandwiches and our two euro serve-yourself cup of wine to an overlook in the town and enjoyed lunch with a view. If we had more time, I would have loved to spend a few hours wandering the steep streets of Montepulciano. There were lots of cute shops that we did walk through but only captured a fraction of the experience.
1700
Arrive in Porto Santo Stefano Airbnb
This airbnb was close-ish to the Fortezza Spagnola. We freshened up and spent the afternoon walking around the town. There were dozens of great spots to grab an aperitivo. We enjoyed several different places and were not disappointed once.
2000
First dinner at Bar Il Grottino & second dinner at Pizz & Core
We went all in on sea food to properly acclimate to this costal town on night one in Porto Santo Stefano. While the meal here was delicious, although unique, we were left a bit hungry and decided to go from first dinner to second dinner at the most popular pizza joint in the area. Pizza and grappa sealed the deal and it was off to bed.
Thursday: Food, walking, more food
1130
Espresso & Donuts at La Regina di Napoli2.0
While this is more of a lunch spot, we stopped here to caffeinate after sleeping TWELVE hours the night before. The miles (or kilometers?) of walking and biking had finally caught up with us and the blackout curtains in the airbnb made for a great combination of R&R.
Thursday was dedicated to walking around the town. We had an unfortunate parking situation and didn’t explore farther than what we could cover on foot for fear of not being able to get a decent parking spot upon return.
RECCO: Take the chance. There is a lot of great activities to do within a 20 minute driving radius of Porto Santo Stefano - don’t let anything hold you back.
1400
Lunch at Trattoria Lo Sconciglio
After walking up and down the coast and though the town of Porto Santo Stefano we were ready for lunch. This was one of the BEST meals of the whole trip. From the interaction with the restaurateur to the conversation with the photographers to the life changing calamari, fresh sea bass, and squid ink pasta, all around a 10 out of 10!!
1930
Naked & Famous + Dinner at Trattoria Dai Frati
I know what you’re thinking, “sheesh they ate a lot”. And we did!! We also walked A LOT and it's also Italy, so yea, I was going to soak up every culinary opportunity possible before returning home.
In Porto Santo Stefano, I discovered the cocktail “Naked & Famous” which is made up of ¾ oz mezcal (e.g., Del Maguey Chichicapa), ¾ oz Aperol, ¾ oz yellow Chartreuse, and ¾ oz fresh lime juice. Mezcal + Aperol, I don't think a more perfect cocktail exists. Especially considering the name - this had “Cinz” written all over it and I enjoyed many.
After aperitivo we wandered up the mountainside for dinner at Trattoria Dai Frati.
TIP: Make reservations in advance
We were lucky enough to sit down right away without a resi but the joint filled up quickly. Here we enjoyed a bottle of Azienda Provveditore Riserva Primo 2015 produced by the Bargagli family. This was paired with cured meat and cheese of course and pasta for the main.
The evening ended with another serving of gelato and it was off to sleep.
Friday: Boating in the Mediterranean
0900
Boat Day
We covered the details here fairly in-depth on the podcast but wanted to share where the boat rental was from. This family owned business took GREAT care of us. Highly recommend it.
1330
Beach Club
After the boat excursion we rented two chairs at the local beach club to rest, soak in some sun, and recover from the rocky waves. Afterwards we had a leisurely afternoon walking around, taking a nap, and running some laundry that air dried on a line outside the Airbnb like a local.
1800
Naked & Famous & Fish
Another day in Italy, another Naked & Famous. It would be a crime not to. Afterwards we had our last dinner in Porto Santo Stefano at Trattoria Lo Sfizio 2.0. This is where the seafood selection platter was had followed by MORE pasta, tuna tartare, and grilled swordfish.
2100
After dinner, we walked around the town and happened upon Saxo Sax - live music. A one man show who played modern dance hits on a saxophone accompanied by a dj set up. Of course we ended on a gelato note just as some fireworks were going off over the bay - a great way to close this leg of the trip.
Miles walked: 7.9
Saturday: Back to Rome, Basilica of San Clemente
0830
Back to Rome
Since we would have to leave Rome early Sunday morning to catch our flight home, we spent the day before back in the Eternal City. This was the least planned portion of the trip but turned out just great anyway. Once we got back into the city, and returned our car, and dropped our luggage off at the hotel it was about 1130. We chose a hotel that was about a 5 min walk to the train station. I think many of the hotels near the train station are overpriced for the value. I won't share where we stayed because I would not recommend it. But it did the job and had breakfast included.
1130
Lunch Wine and last look at the Colosseum
With a whole afternoon ahead we decided, why not MORE walking. During the drive back I researched what all we could do that we might not have covered the first go around. Thankfully we had checked all the big boxes and I didnt feel like I was missing out by not having a plan. The next filter of the search was for “hidden gems” in Rome. Many of these were located in Trastevere and we weren't too keen on walking back over. So we strolled around near the Colosseum and splurged on a bottle of wine at lunch then visited Basilica of San Clemente which was about a 15 minute walk from the Colosseum.
1400
San Clemente isn’t just a religious site—it’s a journey through nearly 2,000 years of Roman spiritual life, from paganism to early Christianity to medieval Catholicism. Walking down each level feels like stepping further back in time.
The top level is a church that was built in the 12th Century. The next level below is a 4th-century Christian basilica with incredible frescoes. There were also many signs in both Italian and English that described the detail, background, and history of what you were seeing. The third and deepest level contains a 1st-century Roman house and a Mithraeum: A temple dedicated to the god Mithras, used by a mysterious Roman cult. There’s also an underground stream you can see which is still flowing today. This is a must see. We spent about an hour here but you could easily spend more time here taking in the three layers of ancient roman history.
TIP: Do some research ahead of time either on ChatGPT or Rick Steves or just Google to get a full appreciation of what you will experience.
1800
After the basilica we returned to the hotel to check in and move our bags to the room. We took a little nap too as the lunch wine was wearing on us. Afterwards we walked towards the part of town we stayed in at the beginning of the trip for an aperitivo then wandered around taking in Rome once more before dinner near the Trevi Fountain. Walking by the Trevi Fountain in the early evening was PACKED and I was very thankful we did the early wake up to see it first thing in the morning.
TIP: Make a reservation for da Cicero. We made a reservation for 2030 but showed up an hour early and they were gracious enough to seat us. This place was very busy but delicious pizza and aps.
2100
We had our last gelato at a place on the way back to the hotel. The location was quite lively and seemed pretty popular so we followed the crowd for one more scoop.
Miles walked: 9.9
Sunday
Depart Rome for FCO airport and fly home.